Wheels
Sequential taillights from the past
BY PHIL ARENDT
For Wheels

Q: I have a 1966 Ford Thunderbird with rear sequential turn signals. Unfortunately the rear lights only run through the sequence one time and only the center bulb illuminates. Could the sequential motor be bad? How can I test it? Any help is appreciated. J.J.S., West St. Paul , Minn.

A: Your vehicle is a little before the time when my automotive career began, but I do recall repairing a few back in the good old days. As I can recall, the taillights are contained in a capsule of three lights. There is a motor that sequentially triggers the lights. There also is a flasher unit under the dash, and all of this is connected to the turn signal switch. You might consider purchasing a wiring schematic so you can properly diagnose the trouble.

As I can recall, when the lights operated, there was a clicking sound from the rear as the motor turned and directed current to the lights. Consider this: With the turn signal activated, probe the wiring at the motor with a test light. You should find the motor in the trunk. Check bulbs. Replace failed bulbs as needed. Check the ground connections for corrosion and security for the taillight assemblies and motor. Also, make sure the flasher unit in the dash is functioning. Replace it if needed.

If probing the wires on the motor finds that electrical power is not being delivered to the taillights, the unit has a fault.

Stalling engine not caused by failed alternator

Q: My 1999 Volkswagen Jetta with an automatic transmission, a 2.0-liter diesel engine and 125,000 miles stalls when coming to a stop. Sometimes when I’m driving at cruising speed, the engine loses some of its power for about 10 seconds and then it returns to normal operation. While these problems are occurring, the check engine light does not illuminate, and no codes are stored in the computer.

At first I thought that these troubles were caused by bad gasoline. I ran the tank dry, added fuel injector cleaner and fuel system drier, but the problems persist. I also have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition module, catalytic converter, throttle body, fuel pump and fuel filter.

I’ve also tried eliminating the trouble by disconnecting the knock sensors and airflow sensor. There was no change.

Do you think this could be caused by the alternator? My mechanic says it’s highly unlikely as it is charging within specifications. J.B., Portland , Ore.

A: If the alternator is operating as designed, it’s not the cause of the trouble. What might be causing this dilemma is a faulty computer. The fact that the engine control module is not storing trouble codes is an indication there is a fault in the circuit. There may be an internal problem in the computer, or perhaps the wiring to the computer has a fault, such as a loose or corroded pin in the plug that connects to the computer. You might consider unplugging and then plugging in the unit several times. If the trouble is eliminated after doing this, check the connection for loose pins and corrosion. Repair these problems as needed.

Heat improves fuel economy

Q: I drive my 1999 Ford Taurus SHO with 37,000 miles mostly around town. The fuel economy is about 10 mpg. Mechanics at two different garages have checked over the car but neither has found anything wrong.

To increase fuel economy I have tried fuel additives and replaced the air filter to no avail. Do you have any suggestions? F.W., Riverfalls, Wis.

A: In all my years in this business vehicles have never met the fuel economy standards stated in the fuel economy ratings posted on the Monroney sticker that comes with every car. Your car is no different. The fuel economy rating for your car is somewhere around 16 mpg in the city and 25 mpg on the highway. Your car won’t attain these ratings. It’s just a fact of life.

Despite grim reality it’s feasible that the engine is not warming to operating temperature. The engine must reach operating temperature to burn fuel as efficiently as design allows. Make sure that the engine thermostat is functioning properly. If not replace it.

Check the cold tire inflation on a monthly basis. Make sure the engine oil is the weight and grade recommended by the carmaker. It must be fresh and clean. If not, change the oil and filter.

When using the car combine several errands or stops to reduce the number of trips you make. Avoid jack rabbit stops and starts. Accelerate from stops steadily but don’t baby your SHO. Hold a steady speed when cruising. Time stops to avoid fast stops. And lastly, enjoy your car.

 

 


Thanks for all of your great questions. Dr. Gizmo looks forward to more.

Phil Arendt is an automotive columnist, consultant and

ASE-certified master technician.

E-mail him on the Web at http://www.drgizmo.ws.

Appeared in October 14, 2006 issue of Wheels, a product of the Dayton Daily News