Dayton Daily News

Q: Recently I purchased a new 2005 Toyota Sienna with all-wheel drive. The vehicle came equipped with run-flat tires. I didn’t know that the tires were on the van when I signed the papers to purchase the vehicle. The salesman who sold me the car didn’t know it had run-flat tires, as he was looking for the spare tire when we were examining the vehicle. The van doesn’t come with a spare when it is equipped with run-flat tires.

I’m very unhappy about having these tires on the vehicle. Since the purchase I have heard that other Sienna owners are dissatisfied with the tires because of short tread life and other issues.

Do you have any information about these tires that would make me feel good about the tires? Do you think the dealer should compensate me for these tires since the salesperson did not disclose that the run-flats were on the vehicle? Do I have any recourse? S.S., e-mail

A: If the run-flat tires were installed at the factory, the tires should have been listed on the window sticker. Also, the window sticker should have been on the vehicle when you examined it. This should have been reviewed before signing any papers.

The tires are supposed to be a safety feature. If punctured, you might be able to drive on a flat a short distance to a place of safety to have the vehicle towed to a shop for repair or replacement of the tire. The trouble is that not many shops repair run-flat tires. Also, once a tire deflates and is driven for more than a short distance, there is a good chance the inside of the tire sustains damage that cannot be repaired. As a result, you have to purchase a new tire, and the cost is pretty stiff.

On the other hand, run-flat tires are less likely to blow out and collapse like a traditional tire. As a result, you are less likely to lose control of the vehicle if a tire is punctured.

Also, run-flat tires that are properly maintained should last as long as a conventional tire. The inflation pressure should be checked monthly when the tires are cold. The tires should be inflated, at the very least, to the pressure suggested by the carmaker on the information placard in the glove compartment or at the driver’s door.

Insufficient electrical power plagues restored 1949 Pontiac

Q: I have a restored 1949 Pontiac with a straight 8-cylinder engine and automatic transmission. The car runs perfectly, except it won’t restart after I have driven a while and shut it off for more than 30 minutes. This is very frustrating.

I have replaced the spark plugs, plug wires and coil, but the trouble persists. I thought that the problem was caused by the old bugaboo vapor lock, but it’s not. I discovered that the spark is very weak once the engine is hot.

Is there some inherent problem in the 6-volt battery that can cause this? T.H.N., e-mail

A: Yes, it only stores 6 volts. Test the battery. It may need replacement. If it’s OK, check the starter draw to determine if it is pulling more power than it should. If so, a new starter is the likely fix.

Also, consider converting the electrical system to 12 volts. Many restoration shops do this kind of work. Also, if you belong to a club, you might learn some valuable information on how to do the conversion.

Fuel Economy Related To Heat

Q: The gas mileage of my 1989 Ford F-150 with 59,000 miles is about 8 mpg. The engine has new spark plugs and doesn’t miss a beat. The truck has wonderful acceleration. Also, I inflate the tires to 35 psi. Despite this the fuel economy is 8 mpg.

The truck doesn’t have air conditioning. Is there anything I can do to improve the fuel economy? M.R., Inver Grove Heights , Minn.

A: One of the keys to proper engine operation and fuel economy is heat. The engine needs to reach full operating temperature to get the most out of the fuel it burns. On a frigid day it may take an engine 10 miles of continuous travel for it to reach full operating temperature. The key part in the engine that regulates the temperature of the engine is the cooling system thermostat. If this malfunctions the engine can overheat or the engine may not reach full operating temperature.

It’s possible the thermostat in your 150 has a malfunction. Replacement could improve fuel economy.

Also, if you tend to make a lot of short trip drives you might experience improved fuel economy if you combine many short trips into one trip so the engine remains as hot as possible. In addition to this make sure the air filter is clean and that the cooling system fan is functioning according to factory design.

Wrong Weight Oil In Engine

Q: My local Honda dealer shop changed the oil and filter in my 2000 Honda Civic. The owner’s manual says that 5W-30 oil should be in the engine. My dealer service department recommends 5W-20. Is this ok for Los Angeles , California ? C.D.H., Los Angeles , Calif.

A: I guess that dealer service personnel haven’t been reading factory technical service bulletins. The factory recommended oil is 5W-30. Since dealer personnel have already poured 5W-20 into the engine perhaps you should call the factory customer service phone to express your concern about the oil. A representative may be able to provide some assistance to you by sending a copy of the technical service bulletin and perhaps they will contact the dealer regarding the use of the oil.

While it’s highly unlikely any damage will occur to the engine as a result of the oil that was poured into the engine but according to technical service bulletin information it is not the correct weight oil and a free oil change is in order.

Retire The Fuel Pump

Q: The check engine light turned on in my 2000 Toyota Corolla LE with 66,000 miles. Despite the fact that the car performs well, I took it to a dealer where a technician performed a computer check that revealed a trouble code PO171. The technician said it was caused by a filter in the fuel tank. For $300 he dropped the fuel tank and replaced the filter.

The next day the check engine light turned on again. I returned to the dealer and the technician checked the computer. The same code was in the computer. He now says that the fuel pump is the likely cause of the trouble. I didn’t authorize the work.

I don’t want to spend money needlessly. The check engine light is on. What do you suggest? U., E-mail

A: The code you mention is related to a lean fuel condition. This means that the air/fuel ratio is lacking fuel. This could be caused by a clogged inline or gas tank fuel filter and even the fuel pump. Since the engine runs fine the likelihood of an engine related condition is very low. If the inline fuel filter and fuel tank filters have been replaced the condition likely is caused by a fuel deliver problem as a result of a failing fuel pump.

The pump should be tested. If it fails tests replace it.

Driving Habits Drain Battery

Q: My elderly parents own a 2000 Chrysler Town and Country that they drive every other day for short trips to medium distances. Over the last three years the battery has died at least 50 times. The battery has been replaced five times.

To keep the battery from dying bulbs have been removed, the DVD player has been disconnected and the van has been to the repair shop a dozen times but no one can figure out why the battery is discharging.

We are at our wits end. What do you suggest? J.S.B., Santa Ana Heights , Calif.

A: It’s normal for a vehicle to draw some power from the battery when parked. A technician probably has already tested the vehicle to determine if the power draw is within factory specifications. If this has not been accomplished ask a technician to check. If the power draw is out of specification he needs to repair the circuit that is causing the excessive draw.

If the power draw is within factory specifications it’s possible that the type of driving your parents do is not enough to fully charge the battery. Since this might be the case it might be to their advantage to install a battery charger/maintainer. This is a device about the size of a personnel digital assistant that is permanently installed in the engine compartment and connected to the battery. When the vehicle is not in use the unit is plugged into a standard household 110 volt outlet to maintain the charge in the battery. It is fully automatic and monitors the state-of-charge in the battery. The cost is about $30 and can be found in many stores that sell auto supplies.

Installation of this device takes about 15 minutes and should solve the problem, but mom and dad will need to remember to unplug the unit before driving the vehicle and remember to plug it in when the minivan is not in use.

A/C On, Engine Stalls

Q: My 1997 Plymouth Breeze with over 200,000 miles runs great except when the air conditioner is on. At cruising speed the engine works fine. However, when I slow down to make a turn or a stop the engine stalls. This only happens when the air conditioner is on.

What would cause this? S.C., Seminole, Okla.

A: The trouble will resolve itself when 300,000 miles rolls on to odometer. Just kidding of course but 200,000 miles is quit a milestone. Congratulations!

As for the problem, there likely is a sensor in the air conditioning system that tells the engine computer to compensate for the additional power the air conditioner consumes. If this sensor falters the engine idle drops too low and the engine stalls.

A technician should consider tests to make sure this is the trouble. If so replacement of the sensor should cure this condition.

There also is a remote chance that the exhaust gas recirculation valve is malfunctioning. This should occur even when the a/c is off, but it wouldn’t hurt to ask a technician to consider this as a possible cause for the stalling. If this is the case the EGR valve likely needs replacement.

Afflicted Electronic Dash

Q: It seems there is an electrical problem in my 1993 Cadillac Deville with 100,000 miles that my local dealer mechanic can’t repair. The trouble didn’t occur until I took the car in for a new water pump, front tires, spark plugs and an oil change. Right after this work I heard clicking sounds from behind the glove compartment and the digital dash simultaneously started blinking. After three minutes of clicking and blinking the dash went dark except for the speedometer. Also, the heater and air conditioning system became stuck in one mode.

A dealer technician has replaced both panels on the instrument panel. He also has followed factory recommended diagnostic charts but his work has been in vain. Twice after I was told the car was repaired I drove from the dealer and the dash went dead and the heating air conditioning and ventilation system was stuck on one mode.

Now dealer personnel are at a loss. Can you help? C.K., Champaign , IL .

A: This indeed is troubling. It’s possible that during some of the engine work that a wire has lost continuity. Perhaps a ground wire needs tightening or there is corrosion interfering with electrical flow. A technician needs to check under the hood for problems.

It’s also possible that communications between the control modules in the vehicle are being interrupted by a poor electrical connection. This too could be caused by corrosion or by a loose terminal in a plug.

A faulty relay could also cause problems such as these so a technician should look into this as a possible cause for the trouble.

To fix this problem may be as simple as tightening a ground wire, replacing a body control module, installation of a new relay or perhaps more difficult as hunting for a poor connection within a plug.

Idle Auto Needs An Oil Change

Q: I have a 2002 Ford Thunderbird that I drive only in the summer about 400 miles a year. During the winter months once a month I back the car out of the garage and let it run for about 30 minutes in the driveway.

When should I do an annual oil change? D.K., Inver Grove Heights , Minn.

A: It’s unfortunate that you don’t drive the car a little during the winter months. Idling in the driveway doesn’t cause the engine and transmission to reach full operating temperature. Also, the seals in the drivetrain don’t receive proper lubrication. In addition to these concerns the brake system becomes rusty and the battery doesn’t receive a full charge. It would be better to take the vehicle for a ten mile spin on nice dry winter days to make sure everything remains in good working order for years to come.

As for changing the oil and filter, change it in the spring to remove the moisture, unburned fuel and other contamination that builds in the engine as a result of low operating temperatures.

Look Beyond The Fuel Pump

Q: Help! I have a 1994 GMC 2500 conversion van with a 5.7 liter engine and air conditioning. The fuel pump has been replaced three times within a short time. Now after the van has been in storage for the last three months the fuel pump is going again. According to the mechanic who is working on the van the fuel pump is getting power. He replaced the relay but this did not solve the trouble.

At $500 a crack I cannot afford to keep replacing fuel pumps. What else could cause this problem? D.H., E-mail

A: I’m doubtful that all three fuel pumps have been faulty. You have a better chance to win the lottery. The powertrain control module, oil pressure switch inline, fuse relay and ignition module all play a part in energizing the fuel pump.

Once the powertrain control module receives signals from the oil pressure switch and ignition module the PCM turns on the fuel pump circuit via the inline fuse and relay. A faulty oil pressure switch, ignition module or powertrain control module might be the root of the problem. It’s also possible a faulty connection at any of these devices including the inline fuse could impair electrical flow to the pump.

Also, if your van is equipped with a theft deterrent system there may be a problem in the system that impairs the fuel pump. If so a technician should perform tests to determine faults. If there is an aftermarket system on the vehicle you might have to remove it to regain proper function of the pump.

Stinky Trans Needs An Overhaul

Q: The automatic transmission in my daughter’s 1994 Hyundai Elantra quit. The car has 105,000 miles on it. She was driving home when the transmission no longer stayed in gear. I checked the fluid level and it was way too full. The color of the fluid is dark brown almost black.

I purchased a repair manual but it doesn’t tell me anything about troubleshooting the transmission. I don’t want to remove the pan from the transmission if it is shot. What do you suggest? C.A. , Bowling Green , Ky.

A: The fact that the transmission fluid is nearly black in color is solid evidence that the fluid overheated and it contains lots of clutch material. Also, since the fluid level was way over the full mark on the dipstick this is another sign of overheated fluid. All of this means that the transmission likely needs an overhaul or a remanufactured transmission needs to be installed.

Since the fluid likely has a strong burnt odor if you remove the oil pan from the transmission the fluid will spill on the ground or garage floor and you likely will get some on your clothing and definitely your hands. The odor will permeate the entire area including your neighbor’s house. The odor is about as close to a skunk’s defensive odor as you can get. If you don’t want to upset your daughter, wife and your neighbors don’t remove the pan. Take the car to a transmission specialist, dealer garage or independent shop that repairs transmissions so the guys there can deal with the odor with the proper equipment to dispose of the fluid.

Old Pony Has Low Oil Pressure

Q: My 1988 Ford Mustang with a 2.3 liter 4-cylinder engine and 183,000 miles has low oil pressure. In the past the oil pressure gauge always read in the midrange of the gauge once the engine reached operating temperature. Now when the engine is at operating temperature the gauge reads just above zero. At this gauge reading the oil level is full.

I routinely change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. The engine uses one to two quarts of oil between oil changes. There isn’t any oil smoke emitting from the exhaust. What causes this problem? J.S., E-mail

A: The first thing to do is connect a mechanical gauge to the engine to measure the oil pressure. It’s possible the oil pressure indicator is malfunctioning or the sending unit on the engine has a fault. A mechanical gauge will confirm the actual oil pressure. Installation of a new sending unit or gauge might be in order.

If indeed the oil pressure is low a technician will need to determine why. It’s possible the oil pump is excessively worn and needs replacement. If this is true a new oil pump is due. It’s also possible engine bearings are suffering from excessive wear. If so an engine overhaul is the only cure.